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Installation Instructions for permanent installations and removable
ready to hang tile murals and backsplashes (see lower part of page)
1. Permanent installations
Your
beautiful stone tile mural by Linda Paul Studio can be installed by a professional tile installer or by you!
Your mural has a legend on the back to guide you
Materials Needed for Installation
- Premixed white ceramic tile adhesive or premixed white thinset
- Notched Trowel
- small plastic smooth trowel
- Ceramic tile spacers (optional ) small
spaces looks better than big spaces
- Sponge (small kitchen sponge works fine)
- Rubber Float
- Grout - optional ( unsanded grout is recommended)
- Bucket with water
- Wood bar for stabilizing bottom row of tiles. If there is not an existing row of tiles on your wall, nail or screw a small wood bar directly below the bottom row of where your mural will be installed. This will prevent the tiles from slipping down during installation and curing
Pre Installation
Lay out your mural on a flat surface. The mural tiles are numbered on the back as in the diagram above. The legend starts at the bottom left corner
Make sure the installation surface is clean and free of wallpaper, grease etc.
Installation
Start with the bottom row of tiles. If there is not an existing row of tiles, backsplash or support on your wall, nail or screw a small straight wood bar directly below the bottom row of where your mural will be installed. Use a level to make sure the wood bar is straight and level. This will prevent the tiles from slipping down during installation and curing.
(If you have an extra day for your project, install the bottom row of tiles first and let them set 24 hours before proceeding)
1. Adhering the tiles to the wall
Starting with the bottom row, spread a thin layer of premixed thinset on the wall then use a notched trowel to make valleys in the thinset
Butter the back of the tile with thinset then use the notched trowel to create valleys in the adhesive.
Press the tile firmly into place.
(Note: Put a moderate amount of adhesive on the tile, but not so much that it oozes out the sides.)
Immediately wipe off any thinset that get onto the front of the mural tile and do no let any thinset dry on the front of your mural. Wipe any excess off with a wet sponge.
If you are using spacers, place 1/8” spacers between the tiles (spacers also help prevent to prevent slipping)
Make sure you clean off any adhesive that gets on to the front of the tiles! Keep a bucket of water and sponge close by.
2. Curing
Once you have glued all the tiles to the wall. Let them cure 24 hours before grouting
3. grouting (optional)
- Start with a small section (12 tiles or so)
- Remove all tile spacers
- Dampen the tiles with water and a clean sponge (small kitchen sponge works well)
Apply just enough grout to fill the spaces (joints) between the tiles.
Do not cover the entire surface of the mural with grout.
(Tip from Linda Paul - use a small flat plastic
trowel to place grout on the end of the float)
Holding the rubber float at a 45 degree angle, push the grout into the spaces between the tiles until they are filled.
Remove excess grout using the edge of the float at a 90 degree angle.
Be sure to clean out any grout that gets
into the surface pits of the tiles (it
will not come out if it dries and can ruin the look
of your mural)
| Grouting tip:
on putting the
grout between the tiles is to put the grout in a
freezer bag and zip it. Cut a small hole at the
corner of the freezer bag and applies to the 1/8
inches space between the tiles. Be sure to wipe
off any excessive of the tile with a clean
sponge often. |
Clean any excess grout off the tiles using a clean sponge and clean water, avoiding the grout lines.
For smooth joints: use the end of your finger.
or
for a textured rustic look: Take the sponge and pat the grout lines. It’s a great look with the tumbled stone.
Clean the tiles with the edge of the sponge until they look clean! (Not hazy) If there is haze, you can remove it several hours later.
Some of our customers choose not to grout their murals. They place the tiles tight together. Whether to grout or not is an aesthetic personal choice of whether you like the look of the lines or you want the image to be more continuous.
Sealing Grout Lines (optional)
After grout has completely dried, you can seal the lines with a penetrating grout sealer. You do not need to seal the tiles as they come already sealed.
Be very careful to only seal the grout lines. If you get the grout sealer on the mural, you may get a shiny seal over our beautiful satin/matte finish
Cutting tiles
Some installations may require cutting of tiles. You can cut our stone tiles with a wet saw. The sharper the blade the cleaner the cut and the less likely you will have a jagged edge.
Care of your beautiful mural
Your mural is a work of art! Clean
your mural with soft cloth and soap and water only!
Warning: Do not use any
vinegar or lemon juice (which are acids), Some
of the so called natural cleaning products have very
corrosive substances in them.
How to Install your ceramic tile mural as ready to hang
wall art or removable backsplash
Here is a super simple
backsplash idea. You can install our tile
murals as a removable backsplash or ready to
hang wall art.
This is easy to do and you don't have to use grout! You can take your beautiful mural with you when you move.
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These
murals were installed as a removable
backsplashes |
Materials Needed:
- A 3/8" mdf board cut to the size of your mural
- 4 oz tube of liquid nails or 10 minute epoxy
- 4 butterfly wall anchors
-drill
1. Plan your space:
Once you have all of your tiles, lay them out and measure the exact width and height. Using framing tile is recommended as it hides the installation wall anchors so the mural can be removed at a later date.
You will need to countersink the screws into the
board unless you buy the framing tiles that have a hollow underside, these will hide the screws that hold the mural to the wall.
2. Cut your Board
Cut a 3/8" mdf board (available at Home Depot or Lowe's) to the exact size of the mural and surrounding framing tile. Make sure your board is flat. Once the board is cut, hold it up on the wall where you want you mural to be and draw a line around it on the wall
3. Line up the tiles
On a flat surface, place the mural tiles and framing tiles on the board and line everything up. Remove the framing tiles and draw a line around just the mural. Then mark where the edge of each framing tile is on the board.
Drill a hole in each of the four corners large enough to accommodate the butterfly wall anchors (3/8" to 1/2")
mural laid out on board |
butterfly anchor |
4. Gluing the tiles onto the board
Using the liquid nails or a 10 minute epoxy, glue the mural tiles onto the board and let dry.
Next, you will glue on the framing tiles leaving off the four corner framing tiles (as is the step 5 picture) so that you can attach the board to the wall. Let dry overnight.
5. Attaching the board to the wall
You will need two people for this step. Holding the board up the the wall , mark the drill hole locations for the 4 anchors on the wall. Drill four holes and make sure they are large enough to accommodate the anchors. Holding the board in place screw the board to the wall using the butterfly anchors. Note: these murals are heavy, do use any other kind of anchor unless you are placing screws directly into a wall stud.
mural mounted on wall |
corner before last tile is glued on |
6. Glue the four corner tiles
Finally, you will glue on the four corner framing tiles. Use a very small amount of the glue so that these tiles can be popped off at a later date and the mural relocated. Its a good idea to buy extra framing tiles in case you break one.
see pictures of Installed Kitchen backsplashes and ceramic tile murals
The Olive Garden |
"The Olive Garden, 16 x 16, was just the right
size to fit above the desk in our kitchen. The
quality of your work is superb! We chose to
install the mural as removable art and are
thrilled with the result! It brings back
memories of our trips to Tuscany. Thank-you!
Rosemary & Joe,"
read
more customer
tile reviews |
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